A Walk on the Mighty Mississippi

Earlier this year, after doing some American supermarket research, we spent some time visiting family in Cory's hometown of Dubuque. People always ask us where we come from in the States. For the curious...

We always say, "Iowa- right in the middle." Interestingly, we've found that "near Chicago" isn't as useful as we'd thought. Irish people tend to be very well-traveled and many have been to the States, but most have been to Boston, New York, and a few of the western states- Chicago seems to be much less popular.

Iowa is bordered by two of North America's biggest rivers: the Missouri to the west and the Mississippi to the east. Cory's hometown is on the Mighty Miss- right on the borders of Iowa, Illinois, and Wisconsin, so his love of water should come as no surprise. 

Obligatory Cory-Looking-at-the-Water Shot

Our visit was in mid-July, on the very tail end of Dubuque's annual mayfly (called fishflies locally) invasion. These insects spend a year as aquatic larvae before hatching en masse to breed and lay eggs for next year's hatch. Mayflies aren't unique to Dubuque, the Mississippi, or even North America, but when conditions are right, Dubuque has hatches of staggering size. Thick tree boughs bend and break from the sheer weight of these small insects landing on the tree and on each other, forming a thick black blanket. The city occasionally has to bring the snowplows out of storage to push inches of slick dead insect bodies off of the streets and bridges.

Only a few stragglers remained for our visit, so I got the benefit of a nostalgia blast without the actual problems caused by billions of bugs.

Dubuque Mayfly

From the riverside in Dubuque, sovereign land of three states is visible, Iowa at your feet, Wisconsin to the left (north) and Illinois to the right. All this across the river that spawned so many stories and legends. Mark Twain would have just been a man named Sam without the inspiration of this blue-brown beauty.

Across the Mississippi

Since I've left Dubuque, they have developed and restored much of the riverfront. The old Dubuque Star Brewery is sadly no longer producing its famous classic beer, but it is now home to the tasting room of a local winery.

Star Brewery and Shot Tower

Behind the brewery is the old Civil War shot tower, used to make round lead ball bullets for military issue. The tower in Dubuque is one of very few still-standing gravity-powered shot towers. Lead was melted and dropped from the top floor of the tower through a series of mesh filters. As the liquid lead fell, friction from the air and the decreasing-diameter mesh shaped it into perfectly round spheres.

Dubuque was the perfect choice for a lead bullet plant, as the bluffs around the city are jam-packed with rich lead deposits. It was for these lead mines that the city was first established- by a Frenchman, before the Germans and Irish took over.

Shot Tower

After such a nice walk in the sunshine on my favorite river, we were all ready for some classic American (and Dubuque-specific) food and drink...

The American Supermarket: A European's Primer

I have always been interested in regional food preferences. Since moving to Ireland, I've learned that Midwest American and Irish food preferences are largely the same, but some important differences do exist. An Irish or European person visiting the States may find American supermarkets packed with strange and unfamiliar foods and suspiciously helpful and courteous employees. With this guide, you can confidently navigate any American supermarket without fear.

First, you'll have to park in the gigantic parking lot, full of SUV-sized parking spots. You'll luxuriously pull your vehicle at any angle into your spot. Heck, take up two spots! There's room for all here.

After parking, you may have a long walk to reach the market itself. Better get back in the car and drive a few laps around the parking lot until a car leaves one of the closer spots... at least one that's in view of the front door of the air-conditioned superstore.

Finding the Front Door

Once inside, you'll be blasted with the cool air and smells of food. Look around for the food, you'll find it eventually. It's probably past the deli, cafe, bank branch, florist, craft beer bar, reception hall, and import wine shop. More and more Midwestern market chains (like Hy-Vee pictured here) are offering a more full-service experience for the consumer. You drove all that way to the store and walked across that huge parking lot, so why not maximize the experience?

Once in the aisles, you'll find some strange foods- depending on your American region. In the meat-loving Midwest, note the wide selection of potted meats. Minnesota-based Hormel makes some classics like the WWII superfood SPAM, a ground, smoked, salted pork patty preserved in brine and steel.

Pickled Pigs Feet and SPAM

If you are English or Irish, you might be surprised at the limited selection of canned bean choices. We do like our pork 'n beans (canned beans mixed with bits of bacon, pork, or even hot dog chunks) and our classic western baked beans- but we don't include beans as an accompaniment to... well... everything, so you'll have a limited selection here.

...But you will be able to choose from a variety of shiny, brightly-colored jelly choices, particularly the American favorite grape. Remember, what we call jelly is like seedless, gummy jam- not the sweet gelatin dessert. We call that Jell-O, after the popular Bill-Cosby-endorsed brand name.

We love our jelly with nothing more than we love it with peanut butter. Yes, that other American favorite is a crucial ingredient in the classic sandwich, peanut butter and jelly (PB&J). Some enterprising companies have ingeniously developed jelly-and-peanut-butter mixes in one jar. No more inconvenient spreading of goo from two separate jars!

Peanut Butter and Grape Jelly

Now, let's head over to the refrigerated area to find the... eggs? Yes, we Americans like our eggs cold. Keeping eggs cold does help them maintain their firm whites and strong yolks, especially when buying cheap ones. Believe me, I've noticed. Keeping eggs at room temperature really only seems to work with real farm-fresh eggs.

In Ireland, we dutifully buy warm, room-temp eggs from the supermarket, take them home, and put them in the fridge.

Refrigerated Eggs

The eggs are kept near the bacon- smoked bacon. The rashers so popular in the UK and Ireland are not to be found in the American market. Scratch that, they are available, but they are called ham slices. Looking for rashers? Grab some Canadian bacon, the pink, flavorless, unsmoked meat that we've assigned to our northerly neighbors to tease them about their British Commonwealth roots.

...Staying on meat, let's talk sausage. UK and Ireland, it's time we had a talk about sausage. Are you aware that there is so much more in the fresh sausage world than pink salty things? The Germans and Czechs (and French, and Italians, and...) figured out long ago that sausages could be augmented with spices and herbs to make a dizzying array of flavor choices.

Thankfully, when America was settled by all these Europeans, they brought their sausage traditions with them and mixed them all together with a bit of the American spirit to give us the choices we have today. 

Jalapeno cheddar bratwurst? Got 'em. Garlic mustard beer kielbasa? Check. Low-fat vegan turkey onion kale coffeebean? Maybe! Did you check in California?

Sausage Selection

 In addition to the fresh sausage (that's sausage requiring cooking), we have the hot dog/bologna (baloney) family. These fully-cooked mystery meats define America to much of the world, and with good reason. I know they are available here in Ireland, but usually in a jar or can (see SPAM above). At the American market, you can select from any number of variations available in refrigerated and only moderately-slimy packages.

Oscar Meyer Wieners

Before we leave hot dogs, ever heard of a corn dog? This might be more Midwestern-specific than other foods, as it combines two rural staples in one glorious package. Cold hot dogs are skewered on a wooden stick, dipped in a cornmeal batter, and deep fried to perfection. These were originally developed to be outdoor fair food, eaten with dirty fingers while walking down the midway, but they have since made it to the frozen food aisle.

Corn Dogs

Before we leave the freezer, let's take a look at ice cream. We've seen some imitators in Irish market freezers. It looks like a valiant attempt, but I don't believe Tesco will ever really come close to anything like Iowa-classic Blue Bunny Birthday Party ice cream- full-fat vanilla ice cream with cake frosting stripes and crunchy sugar sprinkles. mmm....

Other favorites include cookie dough and various candy bar chunk flavors.

Blue Bunny Birthday Party

How 'bout the liquor store (off-license)? Well, let's walk in and see!

Walking in to a Walk-in Beer Cooler

Many supermarkets (and convenience stores, and liquor stores) are installing walk-in beer coolers. Just as the name implies, these room-sized refrigerators are stacked to the ceiling with beer. Cheap American lagers like the Busch, Miller, and Budweiser families make up most of the bulk, but craft and imported beers are gaining traction even in the Midwest. Whatever your fancy, find it before you get too cold.

Before we leave, let's find the sugary breakfast cereal that boils centuries of proud Irish culture down into one delicious character. Lucky Charms, that's how Irish people look, speak, and eat, right? No? Huh...

"That's me Lucky Charms! They're Magically Delicious!"
-Actual Lucky Charms Slogan

With your no-fee plastic grocery bags sagging with all the sugary American goodness, head back across the burning desert of a parking lot to your SUV... if you can pick it out from the others. Better hit that panic button on your keys and head to the one that honks. The others may contain vicious dogs and forgotten infants in carseats.

Just in case you've forgotten where you are, look to the far end of the parking lot for a swimming-pool-sized reminder. No mistaking it, you're home in the good ol' U.S. of A. 

Old Grocery Glory

That's it, my Euro friends! The American supermarket shouldn't be scary or imposing, but welcoming and smiling! If you ask someone for help, they will gladly drop everything to help you- and probably ask about that cute accent to boot.

Now get out there and make me proud, future consumer!

Derry Bogside Walk

The standard method of communication in contentious Northern Ireland seems to be graffiti and outdoor murals. In the mostly-Catholic Bogside neighbourhood, the Republican (anti-British) artists have constructed a series of (mostly) peaceful symbolic messages.

This area was once a literal warzone, bullets and gas once flew down these streets. Today, tourists like us can walk the guided stroll through the murals- with materials interpreting each one.

Peace- A dove (symbol of peace) and oak leaf (symbol of Derry) 

John Hume- Nationalist Leader Hume, Martin Luther King Jr., Mother
Theresa, and Nelson Mandela

The Hunger Strikes- Two hunger strikers in a Belfast
prison. Note the vandalism of the mural and the IRA
on the nearby wall.

Saturday Matinee- A kid and an armored car

Civil Rights

Operation Motorman (left) The Runners (right)
A soldier smashes a barricaded door with a sledgehammer and Bogside
residents flee from a gas attack

Free Derry Corner, Petrol Bomber mural

Bloody Sunday- Residents carry a body from the fighting

Bernadette- Bernadette Devin McAliskey
Nationalist leader

Death of Innocence- Annette McGavin, killed here in 1971 aged 14

Bloody Sunday Commemoration- Faces of those killed on
Bloody Sunday in 1972

After looking at all these peaceful murals, one would think that we were feeling good and hopeful, right? Well, a little bit.

In addition to the murals, we saw a lot of other material that we haven't shared here. Someone had written a letter to the British military asking for an official apology for the attack on Bloody Sunday in 1972. The military actually wrote a return letter- telling them, "...After a thorough investigation, it has been determined that no wrongdoing was committed by..."

What the heck, UK? You can't throw them a bone after 40 years? The letter was posted clearly for all of us to see, and to stir the pot in this already hot neighborhood.

Other stickers and graffiti promoted Nationalist extremist groups like the Bogside Republican Youth and other very sinister-looking organizations threatening violence. It seems that even the young generation holds the old grudges in this part of town.

The Derry Marathon was taking place this morning, and volunteers and supporters lined the streets of the Bogside- the home stretch of the marathon route. Just around the corner (and not photographed), vans of police stormtroopers with full riot gear, batons, and machine guns waited ominously just out of sight of the celebration in the street. There had just been a hotel firebombing three days before, after all...

Thankfully, there was no violence on this particular day. The SWAT teams went home empty-handed. We toasted the peace process with some fine and inexpensive English cask ales. We hoped that these two embattled groups could one day really, truly, celebrate and embrace each other.

...Maybe over some of these fantastic beers!

Cask Ales

First Day in Derry

After our memorable long weekend in Belgium, our next travel adventure was to Derry/Londonderry, Northern Ireland. Its mixed cultural background and geographic location so close to the Republic of Ireland/Northern Ireland border made it one of the most hotly-contested cities during the tragic times of The Troubles in the twentieth century.

Thankfully, Derry is (mostly) peaceful today. There was only one hotel firebombing the week we visited. Only one! Our hostel host still recommended that we avoid taking any routes near police stations.

Just after this cryptic warning, we walked across the beautiful (and ironic) Peace Bridge from the historically (Republican) Catholic Bogside to historically (British Unionist) Protestant Riverside. 

Derry Peace Bridge

There was a festival on in the park across the river, the Festival of Colours. It was mostly a family festival, but fun to check out. I even ran into my friend Lord Stilton at the park. What are the odds!? We picked up some fried dough and some olives for a cloudy-day riverside snack. We could see the famous Guildhall from across the river and watched the amazed tourists and locals on the Peace Bridge marvel at a jetski pulling a tuber in the River Foyle.

Donuts and Olives

The Guildhall

Jetski Pulling a Tuber

One of Derry's most notable structures is the old city wall. Unlike so many other walled cities (including Dublin) most of the original wall is still totally intact. The narrow gates sometimes create traffic snarls going into the small heart of the city today, but I think traffic problems are a small price to pay for preserving such important city landmarks.

Derry City Wall Gate

After a cursory walk around town (we were planning a more thorough tour the next morning), we stopped by a pub near the city wall. There we met a very nice Derry resident who celebrated our holiday with us. He told us to remember that Protestants could be nice, too.

Check!

Hangin' Out

After dinner at the best-known Chinese takeout in town, we headed to our hostel at the top of the steep hill. From our room window, we could see over the river to the distant hill of Donegal (in the Republic) and Co. Derry (in the North).

The Hills of Donegal

The next day, we were off for a much bigger walk around this beautiful city.

Goodbye, Bruges!

After walking around the ring canal in Bruges, we had to head back to the city. The sun was setting, giving us some great new views of some of our favorite spots in the city.

Bruges Canal at Sunset

Bell Tower at Sunset

Arched Alleyway

Back in the old town center, we went to a recommended bar, t'Bruges Beertje. This place was incredible; they literally had a thick book of all the beers they served. Almost everything was in bottles, and the prices were great compared to those in Dublin. We didn't know where to start, so we chose beers from a few random breweries and hoped for the best... and we got the best.

Blurry Beers

After the beers, it was late twilight and the churches and city buildings were brilliantly lit. I've noted before how much I love European-style lighting on historic buildings. They are difficult to photograph clearly, but I think we got some gems.

Flying Buttresses

Gabled Roof on the Canal

We had to catch the last train out of Bruges to Brussels and our hostel. It was late when we arrived, but we were more familiar and more confident with the city this time. For another great night view, we headed back to the Brussels main square for a peek at the lighting of those impressive buildings.

Brussels Square Tower

Pointy Spires

Brussels Town Square

The next day would be our last in Belgium. We had a few hours of additional Brussels touring before catching our bus back to the airport.

Canal Walking in Bruges

After a walking tour of the historic squares of Bruges, we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the various canals and bridges of the city. We all know about the canals in Venice, and Amsterdam has its share of symmetrical canals, too. I didn't know before this trip that Bruges is also a heavy-hitter when it comes to canals.

The canals were built to help support the trading economy in this once commercial hub. Today, they are mostly full of tourist cruises and endless charm.

Bruges Canal

Luckily for Bruges visitors, most of them are lined with streets or walkways on at least one side, letting the dedicated walkers among us explore for hours uninterrupted.

Canal Corner, Bell Tower on the Right

Sometimes, there are no walkways, and buildings come right up to the water's edge. The view from the windows of these (residences?) must be amazing.

Buildings up to the Edge of the Canal

Some Lucky Person's Patio

After a long afternoon of canal-walking, we stopped in to a fast food restaurant cafe for more Bruges beer and a pot of mussels with fries.

Straffe Hendrik and Brugse Zot Beer

After our seafood, we struck out beyond the heart of the city to see the larger ring canal around the old town and the four remaining Low-Country windmills still standing on the city's edge.

Obligatory Cory-Looking-at-the-Water Shot

If we'd planned to stay a night in Bruges, we would have rented bicycles to pedal around the fantastic trail around and out of Bruges to the countryside. As it was, we had to stick to our feet on the ring canal. The windmills are open to visitors for a cost, but we were happy just enjoying them from the grass in the lengthening shadows.

Ring Canal Windmill

Two of the Remaining Windmills

Beyond the ring canal was what we assumed to be the real city- the part where people actually live and work. Being the unashamed tourists we were, we made our way back into the old city as the sun set for a taste of some more Belgian beer and some nighttime photos.

Bruges Canal at Sunset