Showing posts with label Ireland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ireland. Show all posts

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Mary Gibbons Newgrange Tour

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of joining local historian and well-known tour guide Mary Gibbons for her famous tour of the Hill of Tara and Newgrange via Navan, Slane, and the rest of the Boyne Valley.

After our public-transport adventure to Newgrange last year, I was happy to be revisiting the site on a carefree, well-paced tour with a knowledgeable guide. A stop on the famous (but imagination-requiring) Hill of Tara was just a nice bonus.

The tour picked up at a few City Centre hotels while the guide pointed out historical Dublin points of interest—some of which were even new to me! It felt good to be a tourist in my adopted hometown again.

As we left Dublin and entered the hinterlands of County Meath (Dublin's western neighbor), Ms. Gibbons shared her expertise on the last several thousand years of Irish history with a multinational crowd on the tour bus—I told you I felt like a tourist again!

Hill of Tara


The first stop was the famou Hill of Tara. Imagination is required because there are very few physical remains of the simple structures that would have stood on this scenic hilltop centuries ago. Today, it's mostly mounds covering old foundations and a few small monuments. The rolling slopes would make this a challenging pitch and putt golf course, but archaeologists have wisely decided to preserve it as a pleasant, windswept hilltop of history with a 360 degree view of Eastern Ireland.

Hill of Tara Monument Co. Meath, Ireland
Hill of Tara Monument

Hill of Tara, Co. Meath, Ireland
Take a Penalty Stroke

The Hill of Tara was an important strategic and symbolic place for ancient people in Ireland, the High Kings of this part of the country were crowned here, and the gods of life and fertility may have been appeased with offerings and sacrifices.

Now that I've seen it, I need to go back to the National Museum and look at the Tara display there. They have on display a large, 3D model and extensive coverage of the archaeological excavation of the site. Because so little remains, it is difficult to visualize while standing on the hill itself. Without a knowledgeable guide, a visit here would be little more than a nice look at the midlands of Ireland.

Newgrange


The real star of the tour is, of course, Newgrange. This ancient (older than the pyramids) structure is one of the oldest and best-preserved human-made "buildings" in the world. Even though I've visited this monument before, I was excited to see it again.

Access to these ancient structures is by guided tour only, and the tours leave from the Brú na Bóinne Visitors Center on the banks of the beautiful River Boyne. On my last visit, the river was swollen from rain and melting snow on the hilltops.

The Beautiful River Boyne Co. Meath, Ireland
The Beautiful River Boyne

Very briefly, Newgrange is one of several astronomically-aligned structures in this river valley—and one of hundreds or thousands in Western Europe. A narrow passage enters a huge, human-made earthen mound, ending in a small chamber. The passage entrance aligns with the rising sun during the winter solstice, and a specially-designed window-like opening above the door allows a beam of morning sunlight to penetrate down the passage to illuminate the inner chamber for just a few minutes during the midwinter sunrise. 

Newgrange Entrance Co. Meath, Ireland
Newgrange Entrance


The stone age engineering of the structure and the swirly, spiralling carvings are really a sight to behold. The interior tour is meaningful and it ends with a simulated winter solstice sunrise effect, recreated with an electric light.

No photos are allowed within the passages of Newgrange, so if you're curious, get over here and tour it yourself!

Passers-By


Between the Hill of Tara and Newgrange, the tour passes through the village of Slane (and its famous castle) and near the site of the seventeenth-century Battle of the Boyne, the result of which is still sharply felt in Ireland and Northern Ireland today. None of these are really worth a look outside the bus—particularly the battle site, which is now just farmland—so the tour passes through, points out, explains the interesting details, and moves on. 

In my opinion, this is a great choice to keep the tour well paced yet interesting and informative. A little time on the bus, a little time outside, a little time on the bus, etc.

Big thanks to Mary and Newgrange Tours for a great tour. I'll be adding a longer review of the tour (and a few new historical details!) to the next update of The Frugal Guide: Dublin. Even though this day out isn't free (I'd love to see that day trip!) it's a great value, speaking as someone who has fought the battle of Newgrange via public transport. I've you've got a day to spare in Dublin, drop Mary a line and tell her I sent you!

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Just Back from Kerry

...And boy are my legs tired.

After spending most of a week in De Kingdom* I'm back and ready to join the twenty-first century again. We visited some of the most beautiful natural, historical, and cultural scenery we've ever seen.

While planning the trip, I was surprised to hear how few Irish people have been out there. After the trip, I now know why. From Dublin, it would be much faster, much cheaper, and much more comfortable to take a quick RyanAir jump to Spain than to get all the way out to the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula on winding, one-lane, cliffside roads.

But I'm glad we did it. It was an unforgettable experience. Look for more about the trip here and over at Five Suitcases, where I plan to publish a few third-person sellable travel articles.

This week, I found out about a construction project closing one wing of Kilmainham Gaol, and a book update is in order. With all the other writing projects on my plate, I should be busy.

To those in Ireland who have yet to visit the southwest tip of your beautiful island, let me tell you, it's rural, it's out there, it's worth it.

Cory on Valentia Island, Co. Kerry
Lots of Water to Look at in Kerry

*Kerry sports fans regularly chant things like Up de Kingdom to support the Kerry clubs. A quick peek over at a super-reliable Boards.ie thread reveals that Kerry was an ancient kingdom that held strong long after the British occupied the rest of Ireland. If it was as rural and difficult to access then as it is today, I can understand why.

Friday, January 16, 2015

Follow the Irish Cops on Twitter!

Ireland's national police force, An Garda Siochana, have a very active and sometimes entertaining Twitter account.

Most of their notifications are mundane public safety and traffic announcements.


Important, but not very exciting.

It's also nice to see the creative use of social media to return lost property.


The preference, of course, would be to help curb the scourge that is bike theft in Dublin. But hey, they've started watching the bike rack outside their own police station more closely recently! Isn't that enough for you people?

No word yet on whether or not bike theft numbers are down outside the Pearse Street Garda Station, though. And the known stolen bike merchants continue to operate in broad daylight all over the...

Yes! More tweets from the friendly local police force. Thinkin' about doin' a bit o' drinkin' and drivin' home? Better think twice! The Guards'll nab you and put you on Twitter for your trouble!


Seriously, drinking and driving is dangerous and stupid. The force has been publicly cracking down on this menace recently with a blitz of TV and radio commercials and "safety checkpoints" on busy roads throughout the day. They have been pushing particularly hard to educate the public about the length of time alcohol stays in the system and impairs driving. A few hours of sleep and a cup of coffee after an all-nighter just isn't enough.

At these safety checks, the guards also make sure vehicles are properly registered and all safety functions are working correctly. If they aren't...



It's healthy for a public police force to engage with the people they are sworn to protect and serve. This punishment by social media shaming might have a real future as a law enforcement tactic in the future. Can you imagine a judge one day ordering you to put "caught drinking and driving" on the top of your Facebook profile? How about mandatory mugshot selfies permanently pinned to your Twitter account?

Oh, and in case you were thinking about sharing that tweet while driving...


Don't! Remember, if you mess with the Garda, you might get a swift kick of polite social media justice!


Actual Garda Bustin' Perps in Dublin Last Week


Thursday, December 25, 2014

Happy Holidays!

It's Christmas Day, for those who celebrate. It's our second holiday season away from the States, and boy how time flies. It seems like just yesterday that we were spending a quiet (and cold) Christmas in Cork, Ireland's other capital.

But looking back, so much has happened since that little holiday away. We've checked off a number of other travel destinations, like Belgium, Derry, Munich, Prague, and Scotland. If it counts as a travel destination, we visited our families back in Iowa and New York.

Family has come from America to see us in Galway, Mayo, and County Clare (writings of those trips coming soon).

I've accomplished a number of personal goals, finally pushing "publish" on my free eBook, and it's been very successful so far. The downloads creep up slowly each day, and as it becomes available on more platforms, I know it will grow. I hope to continue promoting and updating the book as the new year begins.

I'm well into writing my second book, pumping out my daily writing quota without much trouble. Instead of spending those hours every day on new blog content, I feel like I'm getting a better product with longform, pictureless, personal essays. Hopefully the new year will see another book on my e-bookshelf.

We hope you are kickin' it with someone you love this holiday season, whichever holidays you celebrate. If you are away from your close family and friends like we are, we feel you. Try to spend some time connecting with them with this amazing world wide web through which you're reading my words now.

Best wishes for a safe and happy holiday season and new year to all!

Cory and Sara

Cory and Sara in Cong, Co. Mayo
Cong, Co. Mayo
(Photo: Keri Hanson)

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

An Evening with Marian Keyes

We interrupt your regularly scheduled program to bring you a guest post from that other, quieter Narcissistic Expat...

That's right, folks, this is Sara coming at you to share one of my year's (lifetime's?) highlights: meeting Marian Keyes. Few events in my life will force me to poke my head out my mole-hole (where I do science and knit a whole bunch) and share with people outside of my immediate family, but this one certainly qualifies. That, and Cory understandably had no interest in coming with me for this one, so he can't give his (always outstanding) recap. 

I guess that's enough preamble. On to the main event! 

Before moving to Dublin, I was a big fan of the works of a certain Irish writer named Marian Keyes. By big fan, I mean I have read all of her terrific novels. They are funny and warm, the characters are vivid and interesting, and she often presents themes on mental health that I find fascinating and extremely important. Seriously, reading Marian's books (or the work of Allie Brosh, while I'm at it) is like taking a crash course in empathy.

When moving to Ireland, I would be lying if I said the fact that I would be living in the same city as Marian hadn't crossed my mind. Dublin isn't a huge city...would I by chance ever be in line behind her at the supermarket? Sit next to her on a bus? Walk by her on Grafton Street? Would I even recognize her from her dust jacket photo? 

I knew my best chance to meet her would be if she published a new novel while I live here. As luck would have it, she did! Last month, in fact! Her new book is called The Woman who Stole my Life, which I sadly have not had time to read yet (but I think it will tag along with me over the Christmas holidays). 

As I hoped, Marian scheduled a couple of events to promote her new book. One was a reading and Q&A at the Pavilion Theatre in Dun Laoghaire. Although I was at first wait-listed for a ticket because it sold out rather quickly, as luck would have it, a ticket opened up on the day of the event! And it ended up being a front-row ticket, no less! See how close I was?

Marian Keyes (left) reading an excerpt from her new book, The Woman who Stole my Life
Marian Keyes (left) reading an excerpt from her new book, The Woman who Stole my Life
The Q&A session with Marian was really fun and insightful. Although I have read all of her books, I am not super-familiar with her public persona. She is very active on Twitter (unlike me) and is a bit of an Irish personality, so people more familiar with Irish television and other media know a lot more about her than I do.

Aside from reading out of her book, Marian talked about her writing process, about how Twitter helped restore her confidence in writing during a period of self-doubt. She shared her collection of "prize knobs" with the audience (for real, she passed around a box full of knobs of various shapes, sizes, and textures), and told a hilarious story about pushing the 46A bus up the hill by her house during the great snowstorm of 2010. She discussed her pessimism about any of her books ever getting made into movies, and what her next book might be about (it could be another book Walsh family book about Claire!). She was unable to pick a favorite among the books she has written, but, to the dismay of the crowd, said that Sushi for Beginners is her least favorite. Sushi for Beginners was for me, and I'm sure many others, my entry into the world of Marian Keyes, but as it's not my own personal favorite, I was able to recover from the shock--Rachel's Holiday is my absolute favorite, for anyone who's interested.

To cap off a great evening, Marian stayed to sign books. When it was my turn, my introversion and shyness reared their ugly heads to prevent me from gushing at her, but I now own a signed copy of her new book.

A souvenir from Ireland that can never EVER be topped
A souvenir from Ireland that can never EVER be topped
For the record, had I my wits about me, I would have told her how important her books are to me and how her characters are so real they almost leap off the page and how I can't wait to meet Stella from the new book, and how her books are even better now that I live in Dublin and can picture all of the settings in her stories. Just saying...

And that was it! A pretty significant check off the old bucket list, to be sure. 

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

A Guide to the Irish Supermarket

Now that we've been through an American supermarket, let's take a walk down the aisles of a popular Irish market and see what we can find.

On the surface, most things will look just the same. Produce on the ends, packaged foods in the middle, meats on the back end, and a large selection of frozen treats.

...But look a little deeper, and the differences will pop up almost immediately.

Want a cart? Better pony up a deposit. Got that 1-Euro coin at the ready? No? Hike on over to customer service and break that 2-Euro coin! Most American supermarkets don't require a cart deposit, but for the notable exception of Aldi. Yes, we have Aldi in America, too! Even with the cart deposit, I still see a lot of shopping carts in the Grand Canal...

To be fair, not all Irish markets require a coin deposit.

Cart Deposit
Cart Deposit

...I thought the English hated the French, but it didn't stop them from adopting French words for certain vegetables. Green summer squash are known by the French courgette instead of the Italian zucchini. Eggplant goes by aubergine.

Courgettes
Courgettes

Aha, we've reached the breakfast meat cooler. A comparison of breakfast meats might be one of the most interesting Irish/American studies. Americans like smoked bacon and sausages loaded with herbs and spices. What Americans call breakfast sausage is either links or discs of fennel-and-pepper-loaded pork and... nitrate coloring. The Irish sausage seems to be made of pork and salt and... pink nitrate coloring? And don't you DARE insult the Irish sausage by comparing it to the British sausage which is made of... pork and salt and... pink nitrate coloring. British sausages are also not made by Clonakilty, the most popular brand of Irish sausage and pudding.

Yes, pudding. The closest American dish to meat pudding might be traditional turkey stuffing made from giblets and bread. White pudding is made from pork offal (organs) mixed with bread, spices, and lots of salt. Black pudding (eaten more in Ireland than in Britain) is colored dark brown with blood.

Meat puddings are of course not to be confused with bread or fruit puddings, sweet baked desserts. In America, the only thing we call pudding is a thick, creamy sweet custard usually mixed from a box of chocolate- or vanilla-flavored powder.

Black and White Pudding and Sausage from Clonakilty
Black and White Pudding and Sausage from Clonakilty

Around the corner in the fresh meats, we find much more lamb options in Ireland than we'd ever see in a Midwestern megamart. People often ask if the lamb and beef for which Ireland is so famous is cheap. Sadly, they are not as cheap as would be expected. Island economy, you know. For us, Irish stew is an extravagance, which is a shame considering its peasant food roots.

Large Lamb Selection
Large Lamb Selection

In the ethnic food section, we find canned hot dogs and Pot Noodles (not Cup Noodles, Americans!) Canned and jarred hot dogs are rare in American supermarkets, but our selection of refrigerated hot dog (and bologna) meats is certainly not lacking.

Canned Hot Dogs and Pot Noodles
Canned Hot Dogs and Pot Noodles

Baked beans. Americans think we have the market cornered on them. Boston baked beans! Beantown itself! Bush's secret bean recipe! Visions of the Old West!

None of that matters here, where beans-on-toast is accepted for every meal, and canned beans will be on the plate with any breakfast fry-up. Beans are indeed a great source of inexpensive protein, and they are available in all flavors, shapes, and sizes here. The individual serving packs for lunches seem to be particularly popular.

Canned Bean Selection
Canned Bean Selection

Making that classic English Irish fish and chips? Better serve it with mushy peas! When I first had fish and chips in London back in 2012, I asked the server what they called the mashed peas served with every plate of chips. She looked at me strangely and replied flatly, "mashed peas."

It should be noted that canned peas are also available in non-mushy form.

Mushy Peas
Mushy Peas

More pudding? 'Fraid so. In the home baking aisle, we can choose from all manner of instant rice pudding options. The closest American food to rice pudding might be tapioca. I say "might" because not many Americans eat tapioca, made from a starchy root rather than rice.

Rice Pudding
Rice Pudding

"You gotta eat your Wheaties!" Said the great Michael Jordan. Maybe he never tried Weetabix, a popular cold breakfast cereal more akin to what Americans would call shredded wheat. These rectangular blocks of whole grain wheat are usually served with milk.

Weetabix
Weetabix

But Americans recognize some breakfast cereal brands! ...Or do we? Kellogg's Corn Flakes have the same name and mascot, but just what is Tony the Tiger doing on a box of something called... Frosties? Strangely, the same cereal called Frosted Flakes in the States has been shortened for the folks over here.

...Are Frosties still Grrrrrrrrrreat?

Frosties and Corn Flakes
Frosties and Corn Flakes

Condiments in Ireland aren't as scarce as they are in Continental European countries, so we can still find ketchup, yellow mustard, peanut butter, mayo, and most other bottled sugar and salt here. One popular condiment here is brown sauce, of which the most popular brand is HP. It seems a bit intimidating on its face... brown sauce

Never fear, Americans! The popular A-1 steak sauce is almost a carbon copy of this popular condiment. Here, it's not just served with steak, but on a number of meat dishes. Try that A-1 on a burger or with chicken fingers (goujons here, the French again!) and report back to me.

HP Brown Sauce
HP Brown Sauce

The great Irish tea battle has been raging for decades. Family allegiances run deep, and people from one side or the other scoff at the mere idea of serving or drinking an adulterated cuppa from the other (inferior) side. Barry's and Lyon's both make a regular blend (green box) and a gold blend (red box) and sell for about the same price. To me, novice tea drinker that I am, the blends taste the same from both brands, so I just buy whichever brand is on sale when I need tea.

...Not so with most of the families we know. You are either a Barry's family or a Lyon's family. You'd sooner marry your cousin than buy a box of competing tea!

In the photo below, it is clear that this market is pushing Lyon's with this extending display.

Lyon's and Barry's Tea
Lyon's and Barry's Tea

Of candy, we can say that most of the treats are similar, but with different emphasis and different packaging. In America, we have soft gummi candy, even a limited selection of the international brand Haribo, but Europe has been for me the champion of the gummi. At this supermarket, the best value can be found in the store brand wine gums- fruity gummi candy shapes with wine names like PORT on each soft chew.

Chocolate malt candy is much more prominent here. In America, we have Whoppers malted milk balls, but the popular Maltesers and its knock-off products provide a much wider selection of malty milk chocolate bars and balls.

The Pennsylvanian Hershey milk chocolate bar is revered with almost religious fervor in the States, but the slightly-sweeter Cadbury's Dairy Milk bars are the norm here. According to some Irish folks who've tried Hershey's on American holidays, it's too bitter.

Cadbury's is of course only known in America for its filled creme eggs usually eaten on Easter.

CANDAYY!
CANDAYY!

Of all the popular American food brands to gain Irish popularity, Old El Paso might be the most unexpected. Many an Irish and American cook can now reach for a taco, burrito, or enchilada kit from our Tex-Mex friends. Here in Ireland, there is always a great selection of Old El Paso taco supplies- but few or no competitors. They've got the market cornered.

El Paso is in Co. Mayo, Right?
El Paso is in Co. Mayo, Right?

Nearing the end of the store, we've reached the bakery, and two things are surprising. First, we learn that Irish soda bread is actually eaten here! Most American "Irish soda bread" is stiff, dry, and crumbly. Here, many families make (or buy) fresh brown soda bread to serve with traditional dishes like coddle, a sausage, cabbage, and potato stew.

Also, pre-cooked "American style" pancakes are sold cold in packages, presumably for reheating. Pancakes are of course very popular in America, but they are one of the few popular foods that haven't yet been turned into a frozen or pre packaged form. Interesting that flapjacks are one of the few American foods still solely whipped up on a hot griddle at home.

Soda Bread and Pancakes
Soda Bread and Pancakes

Beyond the bakery, we are well into the junk food aisles. When it comes to potato crisps (which of course are called chips in America) in Ireland, Tayto is the head spud. This local brand uses Irish potatoes for their original, salt and vinegar, BBQ, and the clear Irish favorite cheese and onion crisps. King crisps might be a runner-up, but it seems to us that Tayto is top tater.

American favorite Lay's are sold under the Walker's name here, but the logo looks the same. Walker's are more popular in England it seems.

Tayto Crisps
Tayto Crisps

Crisps here are usually sold in packs of individual bags. The large bags you see here are really bags of bags. Bags of bags and bags- six or twelve in each. It creates a lot of trash, and it really makes you feel guilty to sit down and eat a whole family-size bag when you have to open twelve "single serving" bags to do so.

One popular American brand does have a presence here, but note (as we've seen before) the slight difference in naming conventions. Presumably, Doritos Cool Original and Chilli Heatwave taste like the Cooler Ranch and Nacho Cheesier flavors we know and love in Iowa. I wouldn't know, Doritos are much too expensive here in Ireland.

Irish Doritos Flavors
Irish Doritos Flavors

But sometimes, changing the marketing and packaging for different countries makes perfect sense. Case in point Coke and Coke Zero and their new "Enjoy it with..." campaign. Here, the marketing folks use the local terms Mum and Mate and Irish names like Grainne and Darragh.

...By the way, when posing for a photo like this, make sure to put Mum BEFORE Mate Trust me.

Enjoy them with your Mum and your Mate
Enjoy them with your Mum and your Mate

Not much is different in the freezers. The usual collection of microwave dinners, ice cream, frozen pizzas, and vegetables look out from their frosty tombs. One significant difference can be found in the selection of frozen fried potato products. We do have frozen French fries in the States, Ore-Ida crinkle cut being a personal favorite.

But...

Chips as Far as the Eye can See!
Chips as Far as the Eye can See!

This freezer, above and below, is packed with chips of all shapes, sizes, and colors from the foreground all the way to Cory there. Like the large selection of baked beans earlier, this shows just how important these are in menu selections here. We've yet to barge in on Irish families cooking and eating at home, but judging from restaurant and carvery selections, chips seem to go with just about everything.

Curry? Forget the rice, pour it on chips! Lasagna? Sure! Gimme some chips! Other fried food? Gotta have it with chips! Mussels? Well ok, the Belgians have that covered.

That's it! Groceries in hand, make your way to the checkout. Just like at your local American supermarket, use your membership card for reward points and pass your coupons to the cashier. And don't forget to collect your Euro deposit for that cart on your way out!

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Wild Wallabies in Ireland!?

While doing some research for my Dublin eBook- specifically for the north-of-Dublin village of Howth- I stumbled upon an interesting little factoid: a population of wild wallabies has colonized Lambay Island, a small burg off the Irish coast north of Dublin.

www.broadsheet.ie/2012/06/01/the-wallabies-of-north-dublin/

Almost unbelievably, the wallabies were reportedly introduced to the island by Dublin Zoo as a way to humanely handle an unexpected population boom... in the 1980s!

I had to look around for confirmation of that- and I only found a few vague references to it. I certainly hope they are all wrong. Accidental introduction is a problem, but intentional colonization as late as the 1980s by an exotic species seems extremely irresponsible to the animals being introduced and the native animals hosting this new species.

Island ecosystems are as fragile as they come. I find it difficult to believe that zoo officials- presumably animal and ecosystem preservers- would do something with such potential for disaster as recently as this reported wallaby dump.

In any case, environmental soapbox speeches aside, the wallabies are there on the island and they seem to be sustaining a small breeding population. It seems that these shy marsupials are difficult to capture on film or photograph. The only pictures I could find are from the air or from a great distance.

www.skerriesseatours.ie/

The island is mostly privately-owned, and people can only visit via a special cruise package. Either way, let's hope this cute little invasion stays on the island- I'm sure mainland people don't want these guys hopping around their back gardens!

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Is This Legal?

Ireland has some very interesting quirks, we all know this by now. One of the more annoying ones for me is their mixed adherence to safety standards. One one hand, they do a great job of encouraging the use of high-vis safety materials on cyclists, pedestrians, kids, and pets... but on the other hand...

Where do the Walkers Go?

Nailed it.

The local custom on many busy streets is the sidewalk parking job. Residents, delivery drivers, contractors, and others routinely pull this stunt all over town. Drivers seem to easily forget that the road belongs to cars, the bus lane to buses, the bike lane to bikes, and the sidewalk to pedestrians.

I've had cars cut me off on my bicycle to pull up on a cycle lane for a quick park- sometimes blocking the cycleway completely. This leaves me with two choices, neither of them desirable:

  1. Swerve out into the bus/taxi lane or the road itself to navigate around the illegally (?) parked car.
  2. Get off my bike, pull it up onto the sidewalk, walk it around your illegally (?) parked car and back onto the bike lane before continuing.
Such a reckless and selfish act surely must incur strict penalties from Ireland's crack police force, An Garda Siochana... Well, not that I've seen.

I've struggled around one of these cars while a pair of cops on the beat walked by and smiled at me. I've seen the Garda cars drive by rows of these treacherous urban icebergs without pause, which makes me wonder... Is this legal, or just laziness on everyone's part? 

My guess is the latter. People here (including the police) have an unofficial motto: Ah, sure it'll be grand! This seems to mean something similar to the Hawaiian hang loose. In stodgy American English, this means: 

Just roll with it, if they made a really selfish and thoughtless choice, they probably had a good reason, and the inconvenience, risk to personal safety, loss of life or property, or other setback you've incurred can't be that bad, right? Ah, sure it'll be grand!

Why should anyone waste time policing parking? That would mean getting the clamp (cars aren't towed away here- they are fitted with a tire clamp), writing the ticket, and inconveniencing someone else to pay the fine and remove the clamp. That's a lot of trouble to go to when it would just be easier to walk on by with the assumption that it'll all be fine.

...Sometimes I feel like a chump when I follow the rules.

Friday, September 19, 2014

Caving in County Clare

We saw an announcement for a free caving trip in our go-to Dublin Event Guide and couldn't resist finding out more. The Dublin Caving Group was trying to raise awareness of the Irish caving hobby and had arranged for equipment and guides for a beginner caving adventure under The Burren in County Clare, on the northwest Atlantic coast of Ireland.

We were heading out early on a Sunday morning, and Dublin was foggy and quiet when we made it up to City Centre.

Foggy Dublin, Ireland
Foggy Dublin

This was our first real trip to the west side of the country, and we were going to The Burren, one of the most unique and beautiful landscapes on this already unique and beautiful island. After a long trip from Dublin to Galway and south to our meeting point in Lisdoonvara, we donned our caving gear and prepared to hop into the cave.

Cory and Sara, Ready for Caving Poll na Grai, The Burren, Co. Clare, Ireland
Cory and Sara, Ready for Caving

I couldn't resist taking a few photos of the hills around the cave entrance. We were just up a small hill from the Atlantic, and the Aran Islands were clearly visible even through the haze and fog.

A Lane in The Burren, Aran Islands in the Distance Co. Clare, Ireland
A Lane in The Burren, Aran Islands in the Distance

 We didn't take the camera into the cave for awesome cave photos. It wouldn't have held up to the water, mud, and tight squeezes down there. By the time we left the cave, we were glad we didn't drag our poor camera through what we had just been through. I did find some great photos of the same cave from this excellent blog post and will insert some of them here. Remember these aren't pictures of or by us- just the same cave.

http://cavesofireland.wordpress.com/home/caves/poll-na-grai/

The cave we explored is called Poulnagree in English, which comes from the Irish Poll na Grai, which translates to "Cave of the Heart" or, "Heart Cave." The entrance was in a willing farmer's field on a steep hillside. We turned on our headlamps and climbed in with our team.

The first part of the cave was wide enough and tall enough to walk through comfortably... but it wasn't like that for long. Soon, we were squeezing through narrow passages, climbing over gaps by bracing ourselves to the walls on our way to a couple of large caverns the leaders had marked as our goal.

The first cavern (called an "aven" in caving terms, we learned) was amazing. The ceiling was so high it was almost out of sight. Our leaders said the top of this room was about 30 meters above the floor, this huge room after such a tight squeeze and climb! Water was dripping down in this room at the rate of a heavy rain, and our leaders said that in a wet week, there were proper waterfalls gushing down the walls and from the ceiling... not sure if that would be for me...

http://cavesofireland.wordpress.com/home/caves/poll-na-grai/

Farther in from that big aven, our leaders wanted us to experience a real cave crawl, through a tunnel so short and so narrow that cavers have to go through on hands and knees. In we all went in a line around a couple of bends. Then, just to give us all a really exhilarating experience, we turned around to face back to the entrance and turned off our lights.

We were to try to navigate back through this crawling space with no lights. They say it's dark in caves, and they are right. Cavers talk about the total lack of light photons in caves, and they are right. I don't think I've ever experienced a complete lack of light, where blinking doesn't change your vision at all and you can literally not see your hand waving in front of your own nose. It was quite a thrill, but we all made it out of the crawl and were able to turn on our lights for the long walk back to the surface.

http://cavesofireland.wordpress.com/home/caves/poll-na-grai/

After the long climb/crawl/squeeze/walk back to the surface, it was almost disappointing to step out into the hot sun- especially with our layers of cave clothing and protective over suits and helmets. To help ease our pain, the whole cave group was set to rendezvous at a pub in nearby Fanore village.

After such an intense and grueling afternoon, it one of the best pints I've ever had.

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Bray Summerfest Finale

I was looking for inspiration from the Dublin Event Guide this week, and it came through as it always does. The town of Bray in County Wicklow was finishing up its annual Summerfest with a fireworks display over the beach. Having missed the July 4 fireworks displays in the States this year, I thought I could check out how the Irish do municipal pyro displays.

Bray is about 10 miles from my neighborhood in south Dublin, so I had a bit of a cycle ahead of me. Looking at the new feature in Google Maps bicycle routes, I saw that I had a big spike in elevation between my place in Donnybrook and Bray down at sea level. Tragically, there isn't a smooth and scenic cycle trail following the entire coastline of Ireland. Would that there were.



I didn't know how popular these fireworks would be, so I decided to head down in the early evening to check out the festival and snag a prime viewing spot. I brought down some water, some in-shell sunflower seeds smuggled in from my trip to New York, a blanket, and two jackets. Yes it's August, but it's also Ireland.

I would be assisted with my night ride back by my new helmet-rigged bicycle light. The mounting bracket on my headlight broke a long time ago, and I didn't want to hold the light in my hand for a ten-mile midnight ride, so I zip-tied the light to my helmet. The angle of the light is perfect for an easy look at the road and to be seen by oncoming drivers.

Bike Helmet Light ziptied to a helmet
Bike Helmet Light

Down in Bray, the festival was like most other municipal summer festivals in Ireland and in the States. The standard array of carnival rides were cranking and screeching on Bray's seafront park. Many of the rides I had seen already at various Dublin festivals, including my favorite unlicenced airbrush art ride, The Superbowl.


Carnival ride The Superbowl in Dublin
The Superbowl: Just like the real Super Bowl!

A Chicago Bears helmet labeled Chicago Cubs in Dublin
Nailed It

The rest of the carnival was booming with kids and families. It looked to me like most of the over-18 crowd was in the seafront restaurants and bars, which is where I'd be if I had tween-age kids playing at the carnival. I walked along the seafront, checking out the rides and the park. Bray has a lovely gravel beach and a concrete "boardwalk" the length of the park. At the south end of the beach and boardwalk it the hulking mound of Bray Head.

Bray Head
Bray Head

For those non-coast-dwellers out there, the word "head" is used to describe a small outcropping of land on a coastline. Bray Head has a reportedly wonderful hiking trail going all the way to the top. I could see people walking the trail in a loop to the large cross at the top. I had time to spare, but I wanted to secure a comfortable bench seat facing the fireworks, and Sara and I have plans to take this hike together later this summer. Not wanting to spoil myself, I decided to wait on the Head hike.

I brought my Kindle with me so I could kill time and watch the sun go down. I was glad to have the fleece jacket, the rain jacket, and the blanket. Even in August, Ireland can be chilly.

Cory bundled up with a coat and blanket in August in Ireland
August Evening Attire

A saxophone-playing busker set up shop just down the boardwalk from my spot. I listened to him play through his set two or three times, only really noticing when he played three repetitive minutes of Ravel's annoying classic, Bolero.

As the sun went down (over the city, not the water) the beach and boardwalk filled with fireworks-watchers. Tracksuit-clad teenagers not-so-discreetly rolled cigarettes and took long pulls from cans of cheap hard cider right next to me, which really appealed to my inner "Get off my lawn!" self.

Sunset over Bray, Ireland
Sunset over Bray

The fireworks display, the reason for my visit, was nice, but nothing to write home blog about. The gathered audience seemed impressed. I'd like to watch the reaction of this crowd at the Independence Day fireworks display of any mid-sized US city.

After the fireworks, I hopped back on the bike and pedaled home over the same big spike in elevation. I accidentally took a longer route home, as one of the many roundabouts was missing a sign for the regional road that I needed. As I pushed on through unfamiliar empty streets at midnight, I thought to myself, "I should have expected this..."

I was never worried, though. After all, there are a lot more signs for Dublin than there are for Bray, so I knew I would find my way home... eventually. One more adventure in the books, and on the blog.

Friday, August 1, 2014

The Galway Races 2014

I may have mentioned here a time or two that the Irish are into horse racing. And by into, I mean into. One of my favorite stories to share is of our afternoon in Trim town. We saw a steady stream of older gentlemen bouncing from the pub to the licensed, legal bookie next door and back to the pub. When we went in (to the pub- not the bookie), it was a hopping Saturday afternoon race, and every television in the joint was tuned in to live racing coverage. The local gents were putting a little bit on the horses to pass the time.

All other races pale in comparison to the legend that is the Galway Races, particularly the Galway Races Summer Festival, which comes to a close on Sunday. All week long they have been celebrating all things horse and horse racing, and I've been casually following the buildup and the action on NewsTalk radio and in the Irish Independent newspaper.

One would expect an event so exciting and so Irish to have an Irish trad song written about it. True to form...



Like so many other sports, the entertainment doesn't stop with the races. Each day of the festival has a different theme and a different headline race. Thursday was Ladies' Day, with prizes for the best-dressed-and-haughtiest-hatted ladies. No word if crossdressing men are allowed in the competition.

Monty Python's Eric Idle

...And on Friday, in addition to the Guinness Handicap featured races, another winner will be crowned in the Fair Lady Competition... Another competition involving dressed-up ladies (and maybe crossdressing Monty Python members) in big hats? The races must be pretty boring for the audience if they need two running days of distractions in the form of big hats. Maybe the races are scheduled with too much time in between?

But who would we Americans be to judge? How many show up in tastefully wacky headgear every summer for our own best ninety seconds in sports?

This guy knows how to rock a Kentucky Derby

All smiling aside, this is a big deal here in Ireland. Horse racing is hugely popular, and this festival gets the same king of multi-day media coverage one might expect from the World Series or the Super Bowl... adjusted for proportional population size, of course.

Race punters (bettors) can put their shekels on a number of races different lengths and lineups. Reading the betting options makes my eyes cross, but I'm sure it would make sense to an experienced racing gambler.

They even cheer on well-known jockeys here on the island of horse fans. On Thursday, this Vine went Irish-viral when local favorite Davy Russell narrowly avoided a nasty fall with a bit of mid-race acrobatics.


After the Galway Races Festival closes up, all the horse fans will presumably make the trip over here to Ballsbridge in south Dublin for the Dublin Horse Show at the RDS, another fancy-hat-wearing, pricey-drink-drinking, red-coated English Irish equine tradition!

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Coming Home?

After a two-week break from blogging, I'm back on the internet and bursting with fresh ideas and inspiration. Now that I've slept off my west-to-east jet lag, my mind is clear enough to take the keyboard once again.

I felt a distinct change as soon as I stepped out of the airport into the comparatively cool Dublin summer air. Dubliners had been loudly complaining about the intolerable midday summer heat of 27 C (80 F), but New York never dipped below that temperature, even at night. And the humidity? Fuhgeddabouddit!

As I rode the (recommended) Aircoach bus through the city, it really felt like I was returning home. I had wondered if Dublin would still feel like an alien and exotic world when I touched down. Cars driving on the left side of the road, Irish (and Continental) accents narrating the soundtrack of Dublin city noise, magpies hopping in the grass instead of American robins...

Nope! Not supporting my hypothesis (did I use that correctly, Sara?), I felt at home on the left side of the road. I understood the quick, "Howiya?" from the driver as he greeted me at the bus. When I opened our mailbox, I smiled as I pulled out the same circulars and flyers stuffed in illegally by couriers working for the local fast food joints.

Coming into the apartment, I was immediately flooded with memories when I smelled the place. No, it wasn't that we left chicken bones in the trash for two weeks, it was the same smell the place had when we first looked at it more than a year ago. They always say smell and taste memories have some of the best staying power in our neural circuitry. Apparently we haven't replaced the built-in (not unpleasant) smell of our apartment... I guess that's good news.

I had such a great time visiting our friends and family and enjoying the American experience again, but as much as I thought it would feel like a homecoming, it still felt like a vacation. Even sleeping in my childhood bedroom again triggered mixed feelings. It felt like the place I had enjoyed so many childhood memories (I used to play The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time while listening to the Smashing Pumpkins album Siamese Dream on repeat right there!) but it didn't feel like my bedroom anymore.

Tasting all of my favorite childhood American foods was even more wonderful than I had thought it would be (thanks, Mom!). Eating bratwurst, Happy Joe's Pizza, BBQ sandwiches, Kraft Macaroni and Cheese, glazed doughnuts, Twinkies, and real Chinese buffet food really brought me home. Now that I'm back in Dublin, I have to return to my beans-and-rice diet to start losing the extra weight I picked up on my American binge.

Thanks to everyone I was able to see for making my trip so memorable. Inanimate object shout-outs to all the places I visited, new and old. You are all amazing.

See you next summer, America! Until then, keep being your awesome self. Americans, if you're coming to Dublin, drop me a line through the Contact page, I'd love to answer your Dublin questions.

Friday, July 18, 2014

Reflections Wrap-up and Future-spective

What have you enjoyed the most so far in Ireland?

Cory
I have generally enjoyed the change in lifestyle of living in Ireland, specifically Dublin. We are adjusting not just to living in another country, but we are also going from the suburbs to the city, from a single family house to a small apartment, from an educated college town to a gritty, diverse international capital. The day-to-day operations in urban Dublin are much different at a basic level, before we even consider the cultural and meteorological differences. It's also nice to take a few years off from mowing the lawn and shoveling snow...

Sara
Although much of the novelty of living in Ireland has worn off, I still love the possibilities presented to us by living here. Most of these are tied to traveling. We still have so much to see! We have barely made it to the west coast of this tiny emerald isle, which seriously needs to be remedied. Living in Dublin, we have the added bonus of extremely easy and inexpensive travel both within Ireland and to other countries in Europe. The ease of traveling can make it hard to quell the travel-bug between trips, but I love that we are in such a fortunate position.

What might you have done differently in the past year, knowing what you know now?

Cory
I feel like we could now be champions of the government bureaucracy battles we fought when we first arrived. Navigating the murky waters of the PPS office, GNIB registration, setting up utilities (especially internet...), and working with phone support were all sweaty palms and elevated heart rates for us. The old adage youth is wasted on the wrong people applies here. Why is it that the people who have the least experience with a new government, a new setting, and new expectations have such great demands made of them? Why can't we NOW fill out our initial paperwork and get our bank account set up?

Sara
I would have adopted a more relaxed and go-with-the-flow attitude more quickly. All of the paperwork Cory listed was very stressful at the time, and I was always worried that we would do something incorrectly or that we would miss an important step. Turns out that people here are generally pretty relaxed, especially when it comes to bureaucracy. Adopting a patient attitude and trusting that everything will work out is critical when the to-do list seems like it's a mile long and that you will never get settled. I should of just made a cup of tea and uttered the tried-and-true Irishism: "Ah sure, it'll be grand". 

What is your new favorite Irish influence or custom?

Cory
For me, maybe the most entertaining social custom I observe here is the loud, open, no-holds-barred distrust of politicians and bankers. We in the States have some implied mistrust of our system in general, but people are generally pretty quiet about their disdain for politicians- except during the occasional political earthquake that sweeps the system. Irish folks in pubs, on the street, and on the radio make no bones about their mistrust of the people they blame for the country going financially nuclear in 2008. "Bunch o'crooks, all of 'em!" is a common, family-friendly sentiment shared around town. I can't speak for pre-crash Ireland, but maybe folks were more trusting of their public figures when the economy was growing like a magic beanstalk?

Sara
I'm enjoying the process of understanding Irish and European sports. It certainly is a process because we have yet to find simple explanations for how all of the different leagues work for all of the various sports. That said, once we were able to figure some of them out, we had a blast following them. Six Nations rugby was thrilling to watch, and the uniqueness of gaelic sports has made them very interesting to learn and follow. I even started to get excited for the World Cup. Who know, maybe over the next couple of years I will be a bona fide soccer fan!

Besides your loved ones, what do you miss most about Iowa?

Cory
For me, it might very well be freshwater river fishing. I have easy access to great stream and ocean fishing here in Dublin, but I don't have nearly three decades of knowledge and practice with these strange and wily fish species. Gone for now are the days when I can walk down to the Iowa River and pull in as many carp as my arms can carry with but a bare hook and a dough ball. Maybe if I live in Ireland for a few more years, I can catch as many trout as I could carp...

Sara
Without a doubt it's the weather. Sara of a year ago would not believe that I am saying that, and all of my friends and family back home will think I'm bananas, but I miss Iowa weather. A mild climate is convenient and comfortable, but it sure gets boring after awhile. I want a day where the buses aren't running because it snowed 6 inches in one hour. I want a day where the skies open up and unleash their fury upon the mere mortals below. I want it to be so hot and humid that I am sweating while just sitting on the couch. I want it to be so cold that my nose hairs freeze and I can't take a full breath without coughing. I don't want it every day, but once in a while it's nice to be reminded who is really in charge in this world. That would be Mother Nature. For some reason, she pretty much gives Ireland a pass, and I have to say I miss her fury. 

About which European travel experiences are you most excited?

Cory
I am looking forward to heading farther east than I've ever been. I particularly am eagerly waiting for a trip to Istanbul, Turkey, where I can walk across the Bosphorus Bridge and stand on the continent of Asia, thus bringing me to a tie with Sara for number of world continents visited. Solo trip to Antarctica for the win?

Sara
Can I say "all of them"? Is that allowed? If I had to rank them, I guess the top of the list would include our plans for a trip to Morocco (ok, not actually Europe, but it's pretty close) and traveling with my younger sister. The former because, like Cory, I want to add another continent to my tally. The latter because I can't wait to share a European adventure with my baby sis before she spends a semester in Austria. We haven't decided where we are going yet, but I know that it will be unforgettable!

What are your goals for the next year?

Cory
I am hoping to continue to improve my writing skills in my time away from full-time employment. Maybe this can turn into something more than a hobby for me. Having the daily blog post is a nice goal, and other writing projects force me to write in different formats for non-personal-blog audiences. With more practice, I hope to be able to communicate clearly and easily in all of the genres of freelance writing. 

Sara
I do not want to become complacent. I feel as though we have adjusted well to living in a foreign country far from home, but I do not want to allow myself to become lazy. I want to keep learning new things about Ireland and visiting new places. I think that after a year it might be easy to stay in the comfort zone that we have carved out for ourselves here. My goal is to keep pushing us to explore and take full advantage of living here.

Whew! That was an exciting week of anniversary retrospectives! We have certainly learned, grown, and changed a lot in one year away. After having looked at how much our habits and viewpoints have changed in the last year, we are excited to see that we are still flexible and open-minded enough to make such big changes comfortably. We're glad we did this series this week- not just for readers, but for ourselves! We can't wait to look at these posts next July to see what has changed in two years in Dublin! Will we have learned everything? We doubt it, but we are looking forward to smiling at the young, naive, Cory and Sara of today, just as we read the old posts from last Summer and smile at that Cory and Sara.


Cera Sara and Cory