Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Giant's Causeway

Coming fresh from our Grand U.S. Road Trip, we might have (mistakenly) thought North America had cornered the market on natural beauties and curiosities.  We would have been dead wrong, of course, and almost no natural landmark on this island would have proven us more wrong than the famed Giant's Causeway.

Giant's Causeway from Near Distance
Giant's Causeway from Near Distance

Giant's Causeway stones close up
Individual Stones
This curious and unique formation was formed by intense volcanic activity and rapid cooling during the ancient birth of the island.  Cooling basalt was cracked vertically down from the surface, forming these neat hexagonal "pillars."  Since the seventeenth century, this has been a popular tourist attraction for international globetrotters.  Like many historic landmarks on Earth, it has only recently been placed under protected status.  Some of the stones here were quarried out to build roads and castles nearby, but the site is largely intact and undisturbed.

Giant's Causeway in the sun
Shadows cast by the Causeway
The name "Giant's Causeway" comes from an old legend of the people here.  We overheard most of the story from a tour guide further down the coast.  According to the tale, an Irish giant named Finn MacCool lived on this coastline.  Another giant lived across the sea in Scotland (which is visible on a clear day from the Causeway.)  The two giants were bitter rivals who exchanged taunts and thrown boulders across the open water for years.  Finally, they built this stone bridge out of hexagonal stones to face off with each other once and for all.  When Finn saw the other giant charging across the channel, he lost his nerve and asked his wife to help him hide.  Cleverly, she dressed him up in baby clothes and put him in a crib with a giant-sized bottle.  When the Scottish giant arrived at Finn's home, Finn's wife told the Scot that Finn wasn't at home, it was just she and the baby at the moment.  If he would wait, Finn would be home shortly for their battle.  When the Scot laid eyes on the (fully grown Finn) baby, he was terrified at how large the giant must be to have a baby of this size!  Quickly, he ran back to Scotland, destroying the bridge as we went.  The formation does amazingly continue on the Scottish side of the sea, giving this entertaining myth just a bit more believability.  

Giant's Causeway stones worn smooth by erosion
Causeway stones worn smooth by erosion

Cory looks at the water at Giant's Causeway
Obligatory Cory-looking-at-the-water shot

After making the hike down to the Causeway, visitors can walk back up the gradual hill to the visitor's center OR take the steep Shepherd's Steps up the cliffside for a bird's-eye view.  We, of course, elected for the strenuous steps.  These steps were originally carved and built by shepherds to literally carry sheep on their backs from the rocky shoreline to the green pastures on the clifftop.  After a tiring climb, we were rewarded with beautiful views of one of the biggest formations at the Causeway.  Looking at the photo below, one can make out tiny people on the rocks and the high-tide line shown by the darker (seaweed and barnacle-covered) stones.

Giant's Causeway from the top of Shepherd's Steps
Giant's Causeway from above

Some totally biased and unsolicited tips for the potential Causeway visitor:

1) The site is technically free, but there is a steep "parking" cost charged by the visitor's center that suspiciously charges by the visitor rather than by the vehicle.  Tour buses also pay a parking cost charged by the passenger.  Hmmmm...  If traveling by car, park much more cheaply at the nearby Causeway-Bushmills Railway station, or better yet, take this historic slow train on the beautiful seven-mile ride along the coast from Bushmills.  There are also free bathrooms for Railway parking customers.

2) Bring good walking shoes with sturdy grip.  This World Heritage Site (thankfully!) has no velvet ropes or safety guardrails.  The basalt stones have been worn smooth by years of erosion and can be very slick when wet.  The last photo was taken literally off the edge of a high cliff.  Getting to the formations from the parking lot and visitor's center is a bit of a walk on steep trails.  There is a shuttle that runs from the center to one peninsula of the formation, but it isn't free.

3) This site can be seen in a quick trip or in a longer day of exploring.  We spent a couple of hours here in total, which was just enough for us.  We didn't do the long hike along the whole of the formation, which would have taken several hours itself.  Our time was spent hiking the trail to the nearest (and among the largest) formation, poking around on the stones, climbing the cliff, and having a picnic lunch back at the railway station.  Quick trippers could park at the visitor's center, take the shuttle to the formation, snap some photos, and take the shuttle back to the center.  This would be a bit like the Griswold's trip to the Grand Canyon to me, but everyone has their own pace and their own taste.

Monday, December 16, 2013

200 Posts!

Angry Reader:  It's Monday, no travel post!?  No?  A lousy clip show post!?  No new, exciting, and parshally prooff-read content?  What a ripoff!  Oh well, might as well read the sappy emotional schlock and get it over with!  I'd also better click on the blue link text to read the articles referenced on this page, that is, if I care to.

Cory and Sara:  What a crazy time it's been.  It seems only yesterday we were sitting in our old living room 4000 miles away and thinking of a fun and creative way to share our moving experience with friends and family.  We never thought we would be daily bloggers putting out as much content as we have.  Seeing that 200 number approaching made me scroll back through the archives for buried treasures.

I remember when we first wrote about Sara's official job offer.  We wrote that when the feelings were still pretty fresh.  The clock had started the moving countdown, and there would be no going back.

Remember my sloppy I'll Play videos?  I hope you don't, because they were (and are!) pretty sloppy from those days.  Castlevania 3 probably wasn't the best game to start with video game videos and I fought, kicked, screamed, and save-stated my way through it.  One might have thought I'd gotten better by now...

We had to undergo our Great Jettison shortly after finding out about the move.  Of all the great success stories of that series, none was quite so exciting to me as that of the exercise bike in the basement.  Maybe when we move away the verdant shores of Ireland we will continue with the Jettison series...

When we first got the confirmation of our relocation, we weren't quite ready to make the announcement fully public.  The blog was up and running but was only shared with a few people while we tested out the functionality of a blog and made arrangements to announce our move.  When all of our professional arrangements were made, we were able to make the blog public and share the news with our social networks.

In May, we were still Jettisoning, Sara graduated, and getting lean with our worldly possessions.

The arrival of June saw us pack up the rest of the house, pile into our little car, and get on the road.  Oh, were we such wild-eyed dreamers with the whole world opening up before us.

July was pretty quiet, with our internet blackout keeping us from too much recreational internet use. We did make it to Ireland, and did our best to let our families know we were still alive.

In August, we got our home internet connection at last.  We began to write about our pastimes and the differences we noticed in our new country.

September set up the current format of the blog.  Monday as travel post day and Saturday as the video game day.  We were able to catch up on our knitting, home finding, and exploring posts.

Seems a bit early to reminisce about October and November, but what the hey.  We found some cool stuff, we griped about road signs, we did some brewing, finished the road trip posts, and let's not forget the live-tweet-holiday-event of the...minute.

Thank you friends new and old for reading and commenting on our blog.  Knowing that we have people who care about us and what is happening in our lives is very comforting to us in the big city so far from our homeland.  We are having a wonderful experience and meeting great people here in Ireland, but we never take the love and friendship of our family and friends around the world for granted and for that, we are ever grateful.

So here's to another two hundred posts.  More brewing!  More knitting!  More video games!  More travel!  More proof-reading-before-posting(!!)

Love,

Cory and Sara
The Narcissistic Expats

Cory and Sara in Dublin, Ireland

Saturday, December 14, 2013

I'll Play Mega Man 2: Wily 3 and Wily 4

So long to the great music of Wily 1 and 2, hello irritating Wily 3 and 4.  Wily 3 goes so quickly I am barely able to describe it.  Wily 4 gives me some trouble due to an interesting programming choice regarding the boss, which is a, "This is a lovely room of death!" kind of boss.  I do play through most of Wily 4 twice by force.  Next week, working to the end!


Friday, December 13, 2013

Iowa Stubborn, Midwest Polite

We are all influenced immeasurably by the cultural signals with which we grow up.  Our behaviors, preferences, styles, and expectations of other people are all learned at young ages and are based on observing others.  "Of course!" One will answer to this.  "We know we learn our language and habits by watching people in the places we grow up.  Get to the point!"  Wow, One is testy today.

Many people (or I'm guessing many people based on my own personal experience, nothing wrong with that, right?) might never truly see just how much their cultural comfort zone controls their knee-jerk reactions to social situations.  How can we ever see what kind of habits we have if we don't ever see other habits.  I knew then and know now that the Midwestern (Iowan) way of doing things isn't the only way in the world.  I knew in some abstract sense that other countries were able to function (somehow) with cultural and social norms completely foreign to my own.

Fast forward to today.  I have been in Dublin for five months and have been in almost(?) every kind of interpersonal situation the regular big-city person might find.  I have been on busy streets, I have been hanging out with friends, I have ordered food and drinks at restaurants, I have navigated through rush-hour traffic on my bicycle, and many other day-to-day situations.  In most of these, I have been able to navigate through the interactions successfully by falling back on my instinctual Midwest reactions of not-making-a-fuss and not-causing-another-person-inconvenience.  Truth be told, Dublin's culture, much as some might deny it, is quite close to that of America- more so than Great Britain and especially more so than continental Europe.  Dublin's people are generally welcoming, smiling, patient, friendly, and helpful- but American expectations of over-courtesy sometimes fall short when getting service at a business or bank.

In that social situation, my Iowa friendliness instinct has let me down.  Many times when in a bank or shop, I have been flummoxed by a shopkeeper or bank teller who conducted business just as he or she had been trained, by customer service managers and by their own cultural observations growing up.  The following observations are not to be taken as absolutes, there are exceptions to every example.  They are also not meant to be criticisms or slams, but curious first-hand observations I have made from my own five-month Dublin experience.  I can't speak for all of America nor can I speak for all of Ireland, and things may be different elsewhere.

In America Iowa, businesses compete for customer dollars and do so by working hard to give the customer not just a quality product, but a happy and rewarding experience.  Customers at almost any kind of business are greeted with a smile and phrases like, "How may I help you?  Can I help you find anything?  Did you find everything you needed today?  Is there anything else we can do for you today?  Thank you!"  Children in stores, banks, and fast food restaurants see these phrases and smiles and learn this important lesson- that is what people in stores and shops do.  When these kids grow up, their managers and trainers (usually) don't have to explain that these cheerful (even if shallow, impersonal, and meaningless!) greetings are expected by customers and are to be conducted dutifully.  American customers become so accustomed to these friendly greetings that they lodge complaints to anyone who will listen when someone in a store is "rude" by serving them with less-than-worship level friendliness.  Speaking of complaints, American companies (who are still competing for those customer dollars) have large customer service departments with the authority to grant all manner of "bribes" to dissatisfied customers in order to ensure repeat business.  Again, people have learned to expect this, so they will make those calls when they feel they are needed, and usually end up with a gift card/refund/replacement/discount on service when they do complain.

In Ireland Dublin, businesses still compete for consumer money, but seem to do so in price alone.  Customers at stores and banks are greeted not with, "How can I help you today?" But with the terse and curious, "Are you alright there?"  Which locals manage to squeeze into the three syllable, "Y'ahh right d'ere?" Or just, "Y'ahh right?" This comes as a bit of a shock when I am used to the full, smiling attention of a patient salesperson.  These shopkeepers are only doing what is normal for them and for the city culture, so it is I who must adjust.  Many shop employees won't give customers a glance until approached.  This might be more refreshing than over-attentive American retail employees following customers around the store offering help again and again.  Not bad, of course, just different than expected.  In general, if one needs something here, one has to be bold and ask for it- it might not be offered by a slow, calm, patient, smiling face.  When service does fall through, it can be difficult to recoup losses, and many businesses don't feel the need to placate angry or let-down customers with free goodies.  Once can expect a sincere apology from a business for bad service, but requests for make-up services might be met with blank stares.  In Iowa, I made a call to the service department of a company from whom I had ordered some equipment for school when they bumbled our order.  By telling them I was a school teacher with a small budget and a lot of let-down kids on my hands, I got half of the order for free.  When setting up our internet and phone line here, we set up an installation and waited four weeks to hear anything back before finally calling.  Said they, "Oh, I see your internet line was supposed to be set up four weeks ago, but it looks like it wasn't.  I'll resubmit the request, you should have it in four more weeks."  End of discussion.

Enter me, not shy of speaking to strangers, but averse to causing someone inconvenience, even a retail clerk or bank teller whose help I need and whose job it is to assist me.  Several times here I have been asking a question and had the question interrupted by an employee with an answer to a question that I wasn't asking.  Upon answering the question he or she thought I was asking, the employee nonverbally dismissed me by turning eyes to the next customer or walking away.  Again I must stress that I am not insulted by these kinds of behaviors because here they are normal and accepted.  What I should do in those situations, of course, is stop the employee and ask my question again for clarification.  I don't think the employees would be offended, it's just how they do business.  I see other customers do it all the time.  They don't take the nonverbal dismissal until they are good and ready for it.  My Midwestern upbringing gets in my way, and I usually yield, like a sucker.  In Iowa, I would feel guilty if I had to interrupt an employee who had finished with me with another question, and so I have left shops and banks with no answers to my questions simply because I wasn't bold enough to assert myself.

The biggest catch for me, I think, is the lack of the important question, "Is there anything else I can do for you?"  I never realized how often I took people up on that offer.  "Oh yeah, are you open on Sundays?  Do you take checks?  Can I use your bathroom?  When do you get in the Spring line of my favorite Faux Louis Vuitton chain wallets?"  When shopkeepers and tellers here feel business is complete, there isn't (usually) that extra chance for more service, it's on to the next customer.  Back to the social cues.  Children here see how bank tellers and shopkeepers conduct themselves here at a young age.  They learn to act and expect the same as adults.  These social habits get mixed into the cultural salad just like everything else.  It's interesting.

Maybe this isn't an Ireland thing, but a Dublin thing.  Maybe it's just a big city thing.  Maybe I have just had all-out rotten luck with so many of my services.  I must say again this does not represent all of my business dealings in Ireland, nor does it represent the overall character of the kind, caring people here.  I rather enjoy these small differences.  These subtle bits of culture are what make international travel (and living) so satisfying.

All we can do as expats is adjust our expectations and reflect on how much we learn and are enriched by living and working with different people with (slightly) different habits.  Until we need shoes in a certain size from the stockroom...

Thursday, December 12, 2013

RTE Late Late Toy Show

Thanks to a tip from the blog benefactor Lord Stilton, we got a chance to catch one of Ireland's highest-rated television events of the year, the Late Late Toy Show.  The Late Late Show is the world's (!) longest-running live talk show, featured weekly on Ireland's government-run television network, RTE.  Through most of the year, Late Late is the usual blend of interviews, commentary, and musical guests one can expect of a television talk show.  Once a year, the show takes a special direction.



When we heard about the Toy Show, we looked it up, and we found a great deal of internet buzz for it.  It was sold as "a yearly Irish Christmas institution, one of the most-watched shows every year in Ireland."  Families gather to watch the show together when it is shown live at the end of November and again when it is rebroadcast closer to Christmas.  Being in Ireland, we are able to access the replay of the show on the RTE website, so we tuned in to see what it was all about, and learned a lot.

The show is performed and broadcast live in front of a studio audience of all adults (awesome!) The stage set is stacked floor-to-ceiling with toys and Christmas decorations.  They kicked off the show with a big Mary Poppins-themed musical number with the show host and dozens of kids singing and dancing to the delight of the Christmas-clad studio audience, and no doubt kids across the nation.  The host, Ryan, began his monologue by welcoming Irish viewers living abroad back home for a little bit of the Homeland.  Personally, that spoke volumes to me as an American expat.  This show clearly has a lot of meaning to the people here and would be a great way for the large number of Irish people living in America, Canada, Europe, Australia to feel a little bit of home in their new lands.

Much of the two-hour show from there gives us a preview of the most popular new toys of the season.  Sometimes the toys are demonstrated by the adult host, but are mostly demonstrated to the host by Irish children from all over the country.  Often, after introducing a new toy, the host announces to the ecstatic studio audience, "...And every one of you in the audience gets one of these, too!"  We couldn't resist making Oprah Favorite Things jokes...


"...And you get a car!  And you get a car!"

The show also found time to feature children from all over Ireland performing their talents.  What an honor it must have been for all of the performing kids and groups to showcase their work on such a popular show.  There were student artists, singers, dancers, musicians, and others mixed in between toy and game demos.


Speaking of kids from all over the country, we were quite interested to hear the different accents as we met children and families from the far corners of Ireland.  This may warrant another post in itself, but it bears mentioning here- Ireland has a wide range of different speech inflections for such small (comparatively) country.  Ireland is a fraction of the size of Iowa, but Iowans all sound pretty much the same.  Irish people have distinct speech patterns that connect them to their specific region, sometimes their specific County or town.  We recognized the students from the Dublin metro area with their rapid cadence and softer consonants.  We listened to a young lad from Kerry (in the West) tell a story with the well-known "Wesht" accent with s-sounds delightfully slurred into shh-sounds.  One young girl (missed her location) spoke with one we have heard before but can't quite place, wherein A and E vowel sounds are shifted just slightly.  "Clay" became "klee" and "character" was pronounced "Kee-YAR-acter."  This diversity of language is really amazing and it really highlights the proud identities of each region and county of Ireland.  Language diversity springs from isolation, and this same diversity is eroded with homogenization and blending. Good for you, Ireland, for keeping the cultural and linguistic identities of your counties and regions.

The highlight of the night, and maybe the highlight of the universe, was this little man.  He was part of the new video game demonstration line.  He was showing the host how to play the newest FIFA soccer game on XboxONE.  The host gives a lot of setup asking the young lad to talk about his favorite (and least favorite!) Soccer players.  When the boy says he wishes he could meet his favorite soccer hero in person, well, just watch...


What a touching clip.  We are so glad we were able to watch this before it expired on the RTE player.  Next year, we may try to catch it live on the web, as we hear tickets for the event are very difficult to come by.  Thanks again, Lord Stilton, for the tip.  Happy holidays and happy shopping!